Edinburgh is a truly inspiring capital. Like no other place in Europe, Scotland's main city has certainly a lot to offer. For the festival madness you have to be there in August, for less busy but still outstanding hedonistic time I recommend visiting Edinburgh in May, June or July.
Getting to Edinburgh is super easy. Lots of international flights to Turnhouse Airport are available from major cities of the world. Long haul connections are also possible via London or any other European city.
Arriving into Edinburgh airport, take the tram to Princes Street and head towards Waverly Station. The first stop is 2 minutes over the road.
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The Guildford Arms
1 West Register Street
This pub has been owned by the same family since 1896 and is a great bar, especially when there is a rugby match being played at Murrayfield.
They have up to 10 cask ales and 12 draught beers on sale at any one time. They always have plenty of bar staff, so you never have to wait too long for a drink.
The food menu includes Roast Peach with Parma Ham and Mozzarella Salad (£8) and Sausage of the day with mash and onion gravy (£10) (absolutely fine by me!).
Let’s move next door ….
The Café Royal
19 West Register Street
This is a beautiful island bar, stained glass windows and Doulton ceramic murals.
12 Draught beers (including Pravha and Schiehallion), over 50 gins and an extensive wine list are available.
There is also a restaurant which specialises in seafood, 6 natural oysters £12 or my favourite, mussels in white wine, shallots and cream with crusty bread £11 for the small portion.
There are also tables surrounding the bar should you wish to eat there and it’s not too busy.
Moving on, through St Andrew’s Square and down into Hanover street …
Chez Jules
109 Hanover Street
A great French Bistro in Edinburgh!
Lunch times are really busy so book if you can, there is a set lunch menu of 1,2 or 3 courses at a great price (£6, £8 and £10). Other favourites are French Onion soup £4 and Steak Frites £10.
In the unlikely event of anyone wanting to go out with me, Le Coq au Vin is £20 for two.
House wines are £16 a bottle and there is also an amusing wine list ranging from £21 - £40. Champagne to £60.
The service is reasonably fast, and the atmosphere is hectic!
Bon Appetit!
Walking back up to St Andrew’s Square and into Rose Street …
The Abbotsford Bar
3 Rose Street
This is a sister bar to the Guildford Arms with an island bar and selection of cask ales. There is a good selection of sandwiches and reasonably priced mains (£12 -£23).
Always busy on a Saturday and on a cold day it is hard to find a seat next to the open fire. Maybe try one of the many whiskies on sale along with a pint. I am no great expert on whisky but a Bunnahabhain 12-year-old is pretty good.
There are a few tables outside should there be some decent weather.
Time for another bar …
The Black Cat
168 Rose Street
A smaller bar further down the street, there is another good whisky selection and a large selection of bottled beers as well as cask and draught beer.
The menu is mostly pub meals (Goujons & Chips - £7.50, Haggis Balls & Chips - £5.50), ideal if you want something quick before a night out.
There is live Scottish music 4 nights of the week, I would suggest getting there early if you want a seat.
A good wee bar.
Going for a walk now, back along Princes Street and down through Waverly Station to get to the next bar and move into the Old Town …
Halfway House
24 Fleshmarket Close
One of the smallest bars I have ever been inside, it makes the Black Cat look like an exhibition centre.
Up a small, steep alley from the station, through the door, the bar is on the left and there are about 6 or 7 tables in the room.
There is a small menu, but the prices are reasonable (Cullen Skink £5 and Haggis Neeps and Tatties £7.50). Drink prices are cheap for the city centre and as well as draught beer there are a couple of cask ale pumps as well.
Handy place for a drink if you are waiting for the train.
Walking up the hill into the High Street …
Worlds End
2 High Street
A Bellhaven pub in the Royal Mile, good place for a drink but there are only about 8 tables so arrive early if you want something to eat.
There are craft ales (on rotation), a good selection of bottled beers and ciders.
Food includes Pickle sausage roll, fish finger sandwiches, pub classic dishes such as fish and chips, burgers and traditional pies. A good variety if you can get a table. Prices range from £10 - £17.
Outside and up the hill to Niddry Street …
Whistle Binkies
7 Niddry Street
Something a bit different, a live music bar under the South bridge.
A variety of 10 draught beers, lots of bottles, 4 cask ales and a good selection of malts. Live bands every night, this bar has lots of nooks and crannies if you want to hide away.
Different genres of music depending when you go but it will probably be LOUD!
Now for something a bit quieter down at the Grassmarket …
The Last Drop
74 Grassmarket
A Nicholsons pub with outside seating in the Grassmarket, the name comes from the fact that the tavern was next to the main gallows in the city and the last public hanging in the Grassmarket took place there.
There is an extensive gin and whisky menu and a wide selection of cask, craft and draught beer from the UK and abroad.
There is a traditional pub food menu (Burgers, Fish & Chips etc). Not extensive but suits the size of the pub.
Time to go, but maybe one more on the way up the hill …
Bow Bar
80 West Bow
A one room traditional bar with over 350 malt whiskies, 8 cask ales and 6 draught beers.
Opening at midday every day except Sunday (12.30pm), there are bar snacks available until 5pm. A wide range of pies including Moroccan Lamb, Pork and Blue Cheese and Venison and Red Berry.
Early afternoon is a good time to visit as it is quieter.
There is no music or cocktails so it may not suit everyone, but it is a reminder of how bars used to be.
I don’t suggest you try all these places in one day but pick and choose and have a great time in Edinburgh.
