About the 11th Arrondissement
The “11th” is one of the most diverse areas of Paris with its fashionable bars and shops. The Boulevard Voltaire bisects the district with the Place de la Republique, Place de la Nation and Place de la Bastille on the edge of the quarter, with roads leading to Voltaire in the centre.
Safety
It is worth stressing, that the 11th is an absolutely safe area of the city and due to its proximity to major landmarks of Paris it is also very well policed. With less tourists and crowds in the streets the 11th enjoys a moderate lifestyle. Loved by the hipsters this part of town provides a cosy setting for art lovers, food gurus and everyone who simply likes Paris.
Getting to the 11th Arrondissement
The district is well served by Metro stations and bus stops. The main Metro Lines are 9 and 5. Bus stops are at regular intervals along the main roads throughout the quarter.
This is my favourite area of Paris and here are a few places you might find interesting, along with the nearest metro stops.
Choosing a hotel
Grand Hotel Français (223 Boulevard Voltaire – Metro: Rue des Boulets, Line 9) Maybe not the grandest hotel in Paris (despite the name) but it is central to the district within 3 minutes of the metro and 10 minutes from Gare de Lyon. I have always found it exceptionally clean and a good base from which to explore the city. The staff are friendly, and the breakfast is good. There is a small bar where you sometimes get a welcome drink.
Useful links for a Paris trip
Places to consider for food and drink
Le Canon de la Nation (2 Place de la Nation – Metro: Nation, Lines 1,2,6 and 9) A very French brasserie with a heated terrace for colder days. There are not many tourists in the area, so the prices are not too bad. Open from 6am for breakfast until 2am. There is a pinball machine in the bar, and it is busy when people stop by for a drink or food after work. Take a seat by the bar and enjoy the atmosphere.
Telephone: +33143431583
The Bootleg Bar (55 Rue de la Roquette – Metro: Bastille, Lines 1,5, and 8; Voltaire, Line 9) Open daily 5pm – 2am, with happy hour 5pm-8pm. It was quite surprising to see Kronenbourg 50cl actually cheaper than in Limoux! There is a substantial cocktail menu based on an American speakeasy and a music evening each week. A small but busy bar.
Au Lèche-Vin (13 Rue Daval – Metro: Bréguet-Sabin, Line 5) Not the bar you might expect, a bit shabby with cheap drinks though do not expect a typical wine bar (as in a large variety of different wine). Good for a night out or before going to a club. The decoration is spiritual and the toilets almost humorous. Sit at the bar and become a philosopher!
Telephone: +33143550670
La Robe de la Girafe (5 Rue Froment – Metro: Bréguet-Sabin, Line 5) A friendly restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere. There is a small menu with fresh ingredients and daily specials. An excellent neighbourhood restaurant for lunch.
Telephone: +33982371852
Outland Bar (6 Rue Emile Lepeu – Metro: Charonne, Line 9) This bar is the outlet for the Outland brewery based in the suburbs of Paris. There is a selection of 12 draught beers including 4 guest beers. The bar opens at 6pm for great beer, a warm welcome and tapas plates of cold meats and cheese.
La Brigade (103 Rue Oberkampf – Metro: Parmentier, Line 3) Opens for lunch between midday and 3pm and in the evening from 6pm – 10.30. Very much a meat restaurant, especially of the grilled variety, although there is a vegetarian option. They even have a food truck to bring food to your outdoor event or party.
Aux Deux Amis (45 Rue Oberkampf – Metro: Oberkampf, Lines 5 and 9) A small bistro specializing in natural wine and tapas style food. A bit expensive but a good place for a busy bustling atmosphere which spills out onto the pavement.
Bataclan (50 Boulevard Voltaire – Metro: Saint Ambroise, Line 9; Oberkampf, Lines 5 and 9) Although remembered worldwide for the 2015 terrorist attack, Bataclan was built in 1864 in a Chinese style and is an extremely popular live music venue. It hosts a variety of musical genres but seems to specialise in rock. With 2 balconies running the length of the venue, it resembles the Fruitmarket concert hall in Glasgow. Beside the entrance is the Grand Café Ba.Ta.Clan, a striking Art Deco grand café. Open from 8am for breakfast through to 11pm. Convenient for pre show drinks or a meal. The mezzanine has a large screen for the big sport occasions. Happy hour from 4pm – 9pm in the bar.
Markets in 11th Arrondissement
The 11th Arrondissement is known for hosting massive open air markets twice a week – Marché Bastille (open on Thursdays and Sundays) and Marché Popincourt (open Tuesdays and Fridays). I think every visitor should explore the local markets to dive into the rhythm of the city life, never mind a chance of spotting a bargain or trying truly local food.
So, I hope I have given you some ideas about places to visit whilst in the 11th Arrondissement. I am sure there will be new places opening all the time and hopefully you will discover your new favourite bar in one of the most exciting areas of Paris.
