About Bath
Bath is a city in the county of Somerset in South West England. The city nestles in the valley of the River Avon and is surrounded by beautiful countryside. Founded by the Romans in 43AD, they developed the famous baths from the naturally occurring hot springs. In 1690, Queen Elizabeth 1st granted the town city status by Royal Charter. In the 18th century, many of the buildings we see today were constructed including The Circus, designed by John Wood and the Royal Crescent designed by his son, John Wood the Younger. These buildings are Grade 1 listed as of exceptional interest. The City of Bath became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987 and tourism is now one of the major sources of revenue for the city.
Getting to Bath
The nearest regional airport is Bristol, 20 miles and 1 hour away. The Bath Spa train station has an hourly service to London Paddington operated by GWR. The journey time is about 1.5 hours. Bath is 16 miles to the M4, which is the nearest motorway and London is 115 miles and 2.5 hours away by car.
I arrived at Bath Spa from Exeter after a 2 hour train journey (changing at Bristol). As usual the hotel was close to the station, in this case less than 5 minutes. I was staying at The Royal Hotel (Manvers Street), designed by I K Brunel in the 19th century, probably as the station hotel. It was too early to check in, so I left my bag and went for a walk. I had been told to get a good view of the city, The Lookout (56 Alexandra Park) was the place to go. It was a steep climb in places, but the view was worth it.
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Heading back over the river towards the hotel, it was time for lunch. Brasserie Brunel (23 Manvers Street) had a fixed price 2 course menu for £12 or a 3 course for £14. After lunch it was time for some sightseeing.
On the way to the Roman Baths, there is the Thermae Bath Spa (Hetling Pump Room). This is the modern day version of the Roman Baths. There are 5 historic buildings making up the complex, which includes over 50 spa treatments and an open air rooftop pool. There is a twilight package available which includes 3 hours in the pool, a meal and glass of wine. Relax in the pool and take in the view of the city and surrounding countryside.
From the present day, a short walk takes you back 2000 years when you arrive at The Roman Baths (Abbey Church Yard). Ticket prices for adults are £21 for a day ticket and well worth it in my opinion. Allow 1-2 hours for your visit. As well as the Baths, there is a Roman Temple, a Sacred Spring and artefacts from the excavations on the site. The site extends below street level and is a lot larger than first imagined. You can also taste the Spa water containing 43 minerals, very much an acquired taste! Arrive at 10am and you can avoid the worst of the queues.
With a strange mineral taste in my mouth, it was time to look for a beer! I checked my phone and found a microbrewery close by. The Bath Brew House (14 James Street West). They run Brewery Tours for £7.50 (including a beer tasting) and there is a very reasonable menu of homemade pub food. Outside there is a pleasant terrace area and there is regular live music. The long bar is made of typical micro brewery distressed wood with 5 of their own brews on tap along with national draught beer. I had a Ciabatta sandwich (£6.50) with a couple of beers before I went back to the hotel.
The next day after an early breakfast, it was time for a circular walk over the river, round to the Royal Crescent and something to eat before back to the station for the 17.40 train to London. I took a walk up to North Parade Road and over the river to Top Lock Cottage (Kennet & Avon Canal). It was a lock keepers cottage built in the early 19th century. A pleasant walk along the canal bank.
The next place of interest was The Holburne Museum (Great Pulteney Street / Sydney Gardens) is a prominent museum and public art gallery in the city. Allow 2 hours for a visit, there are exhibitions over 2 floors, a well as a café. Admission is £12.50 for adults.
Returning over the river by the Pulteney Bridge, it was rebuilt in at the end of the 18th century after flood damage. Only one of three bridges in the world lined with cafes and shops. Only a 3 arch span but there is good view of the bridge and the weir from the riverbank.
Leaving the bridge, Bath Abbey is on the left hand side and the Victoria Art Gallery (Bridge Street). I was having to keep check of the time so headed north towards The Bell Inn (103 Walcot Street). Another real ale pub with a pizza menu. With 9 ales on tap, it was a pleasant stop and was a I was surprised to find it is actually owned by a customers’ cooperative.
The next stop was to see the spectacular Georgian architecture of Circus Place and the Royal Crescent. Both places are stops for the City tour bus, but I found there was a great view of the Royal Crescent from the Royal Victoria Park opposite.
Cutting through the park along Royal Avenue, you come to the Jane Austin Centre (40 Gay Street). A must visit for Jane Austin fans, The admission is £11 and features staff in period dress with exhibits detailing history of the author’s time in Bath.
It had been a busy day exploring the city, so it was time for something to eat before the train. Looking to find a restaurant that was not about to close, I came across The Scallop Shell (22 Monmouth Place). A delicious cod fillet and chips (£13.95) with a bottle of local Butcombe Gold Premier Beer went down extremely well.
A casual walk down to Green Park and along the canal, filled in the time until my train was due. It was a tiring day, but I would recommend a visit to this historic city, especially as there is something for all the family. The only downside is it can be difficult to drive around the city, so public transport would be the preferred option.
