About Rouen
Rouen is the capital of the Normandy region, with the port on the River Seine being the major factor in the prosperity of the city from the Vikings to the Normans in the 10th century. In Medieval times there was a close connection to the English Kings, William the Conqueror was the Duke of Normandy and Richard I was crowned in Rouen cathedral and his heart is buried there. In later years, the city suffered heavy bombing in the Second World War and the cathedral was almost destroyed. Now Rouen is a major tourist destination and a gateway to the Normandy beaches and the channel ports.
Getting to Rouen
The city is easily accessible by both road and rail. The rail station has regular services to Paris St Lazare with journey times of up to 1hr 40 mins (17€ - 40€ Standard Fares). By road, the journey to Paris (via A13 autoroute) is 135 km and takes about 1 hour. The Channel Tunnel is 2.5 hrs away (via the A16 and A28). The channel ports of Dieppe (58 kms), Le Havre (86 kms) and Caen (130 kms) are all within easy driving distance.
I arrived in Rouen on my way to Dieppe for the ferry to Newhaven after the journey from Poitiers. The hotel was the Campanile (13 Rue de la Motte), very conveniently just off the N338, with secure parking, although about 2 kms from the town centre, it was clean and comfortable right next to the Rouen rugby stadium.
It was only a 30-minute walk into the town centre along the Seine and over the Joan of Arc bridge. After a visit to the Tourism Office (25 Place de la Cathedrale), I set off to discover the city very much aware of opening times for the various buildings.
Rouen Cathedral
Directly opposite the Tourism Office is Notre-Dame Cathedral This outstanding church is a focal point for the city, with its 151-metre spire being the highest in France. The Gothic façade from the square is very striking, and it is no wonder Monet painted it several times. During the summer there is a light show with projected illuminations onto the building, something that would be well worth a visit.
Next to the cathedral in the Archdiocese, there is a museum dedicated to Joan of Arc (7 Rue Saint Romain). Mainly dedicated to the trial, there are several rooms with visual displays, audio commentary and actors recreating the events of the second trial. There are numerous other Gothic buildings around the cathedral that add to the deep sense of history.
Just next to the square is one of the main shopping streets in Rouen, Rue de Gros Horloge where you will find Le Gros-Horloge surprisingly. This clock tower spans the main shopping street with its half-timbered buildings in the centre of town. It is an astronomical clock which, along with the pavilion, was built in the 14th century. You can visit inside the belfry (7€) and see the mechanism and bells. There is always a crowd on the street outside, especially when it chimes every 15 minutes, but look up underneath the arch and see the ornate carvings there.
A 5 minute walk away from the clock is the very modern Church of Saint Joan of Arc. It is situated right next to the market where Joan was burnt at the stake. The building was designed by Louis Arretche and completed in 1979, to give the appearance of an upturned boat. However, its most striking feature is a wall of stained glass that rises up from behind the alter.
A 10 minute walk towards the Square Verdrel and you arrive at the Musée des Beaux-Arts, considered to be one of the best fine arts museums in France. There are paintings by Monet, Renoir and other famous Impressionists. The first floor is free so you can relax and enjoy the quiet atmosphere. The sculpture square was a particular favourite.
On the way back to the hotel, it was time for something to eat at Le 6ème Sens (2 Rue Thomas Corneille), reasonably priced food with the ingredients locally sourced.
It was a brief stay in Rouen, but I was particularly delighted to be able to see the cathedral and the Gothic architecture. I look forward to returning to the area and exploring more of Normandy.
