About Vancouver
The city of Vancouver has the highest population density in Canada and over 50% of its residents are not native English speakers. Situated on the west coast of British Columbia, it is shielded from the Pacific Ocean by Vancouver Island which leads to a relatively mild climate. It is not only the most expensive place to live in Canada but also the most desirable with a large variety of outdoor sports such as skiing, kayaking as well as its beautiful scenery and generally laid-back lifestyle.
Getting to Vancouver
Vancouver is well served by the International airport which has metro links to downtown. There is also a US pre clearance area and a sea plane terminal. There are more direct flights to China than any other airport in North America or Europe. The metro takes 30 minutes on the Canada Line to downtown (Vancouver City Centre station). Pacific Central Station is the rail link to trans Canadian trains as well as Amtrak and the Greyhound bus terminal. The nearest metro station is Main Street Science World Station. Travelling by car, you are only 24 miles from the US border.
I came off a 4.75-hour flight from Toronto into Vancouver, then took the Canada Line to the Waterfront station stop and checked in to my hotel, The Delta Hotel by Marriott (550 West Hastings Street). The hotel was in the heart of downtown, within easy walking distance of all the local attractions.
Time to get out onto the street and see what is happening ...
Gastown
The oldest neighbourhood in downtown Vancouver. Named after “Gassy” Jack Deighton, a Yorkshire seaman, who opened the first saloon bar there in 1867. The area fell into disrepair in the 1960s and it was not until 2000 that it became one of the foremost areas for the young professionals, with high end housing, nightlife and shopping along its cobbled streets.
Steamworks (375 Water Street)
A microbrewery in the historic district of Gastown is a steam powered brewery, the first in Canada. The same steam pipes that also run to the historic steam clock, brew the beer. The range of beers is good and like most craft breweries, ask for a taster to find your favourite. The food menu is the usual pub food of burgers, pizzas as well as some more expensive dishes like Alder wood wrapped salmon and Bacon wrapped filet. Busy bar but great atmosphere.
Gastown Steam Clock (305 Water Street)
Built in 1977 in an antique style, it whistles every 15 minutes and always attracts a lot of sightseers. Features on the cover of Nickelback’s 2011 album ‘Here and Now’.
Mahony (Burrard Landing)
Right opposite the convention centre and sea terminal. Mahony’s is an Irish pub (The name is a clue). A great location as you can sit outside and watch the seaplanes take off and land at the nearby Flight Centre. A bit expensive but cannot fault the location.
Stanley Park
Vancouver’s largest park at over 400 hectares, you can take a tour, walk or cycle around the 6.5-mile perimeter and the various trails that criss cross the area. I also did not realise there are two beaches on the western side, along the seawall path. Should you not feel too energetic, the hop on – hop off bus can drop you off at places of interest.
Granville Island
Although a peninsula rather than an island, I found the best way to get there was by an Aquabus ferry from Hornby (6 CAD return). The ferry drops you off next to the famous Public Market. An extremely popular place with both locals and tourists, there are artisan food stalls, crafts and a brewery. Granville Island Brewing (1441 Cartwright Street) is further towards the centre of the island, just under the H 99 overpass. A good selection of beers (as seems to be the norm here in Vancouver) and a reasonable menu. For a more substantial food selection, try The Keg Steakhouse and Bar (1499 Anderson Street) for local seafood and steaks.
The Wicklow Pub (610 Stamps Landing)
Back on the ferry again and 2 stops to Stamps Landing. The Wicklow Pub is on the waterfront with a patio bar overlooking the marina. A place to sit with a beer and watch the boats come and go.
Craft Beer Market (85 West 1st Avenue)
Another 2 ferry stops, and you arrive at Olympic Village. The Craft Beer Market is a big shed of beer! Resembling a red brick warehouse, there are 100 beers on tap both Canadian and imported with pastas, burgers and fish tacos on the menu. Definitely the look and feel of a traditional beer hall but sitting at the busy bar is the best place to soak up the atmosphere.
Taking the ferry back over False Creek to Yaletown, it was a 40-minute walk back to Gastown and the hotel. Looking back, it was difficult to choose between Toronto and Vancouver but the lifestyle, scenery, waterfront and slower pace probably gives Vancouver the edge.
